04 October 2021
12,000 years ago, the island of Ireland was covered in dense forest. (National Biodiversity Data Centre 2015). Up until the 1600’s trees and shrubs like Hazel, Birch, Alder, Oak, Elm and Scots Pine dominated the land, however, during this 17th century period Ireland was stripped of 98% of its forest. A sobering thought. These thoughts were in my mind as I drove on the newly tarmacked, concrete edged motorway to meet with my classmates and tutors on a foraging visit to Ballymoyle woods. I could catch glimpses of wooded areas and lush green hillsides as I got closer to County Wicklow the ‘Garden of Ireland.’ Turning off the M11 was like letting out a deep breath. Winding roads leading to almost dirt tracks, verdant fields, enticing glimpses of mountain areas ahead, and trees, lots of beautiful trees stretching into the sky. Majestic. Ballymoyle woods. The air changed, my mood lifted and I couldn’t wait to be in it. Part of it.
Our Host
Clothilde, a beautiful French woman was our host for the day. A woman who’s job I envy with a passion! Clothilde is a foraging and preservation chef for McCreddin village hotel and The Strawberry Tree restaurant, the only certified organic restaurant in the country. Clothilde appeared to me to be as much a part of the forest as the trees and wild plants. She led us up a canopy lined wide and well-worn pathway, dappled autumn light, the promise of a vista beckoned. The first learning curve was the advice to look down, quickly followed by and don’t forget to look up, and across. I quickly ascertained that in order to gain the most from this experience I needed to engage all the senses. Stopping frequently to bend and root among what to the untrained eye looked like weeds, Clothilde pointed out edibles, she picked, rubbed, smelled and tasted, all the time imparting her knowledge of the plants. How to recognise them, what and when to avoid, characters of difference with other perhaps inedible plants. Clothilde’s manner was gentle, hugely engaging and we hung on to every word. At first we were a little self-conscious, reticent to taste or ask questions, but, the sheer joy she exuded within her surroundings encouraged deep interest and abandonment of shyness. In his book, Irish Wild Plants: Myths legends and folklore, Niall Mac Coitir talks about the importance of wild plants in ancient Irish times, their place in poetry, Brehon law and as medicine. He gives an example of how it was believed there were 365 parts to the body and that a different herb existed to cure the ills of each part. Clothilde gave life to this. For every plant foraged she spoke of its uses, culinary, medicinal and sometimes mystical. Indeed, she had many alcoholic uses for a great deal of them! Meadow sweet, Chervil, Plantain, Tree Sap, Sorrel, there was hardly an inch of ground that did not have something edible there.
Food for Free, a pocket sized reference book by Richard Mabey talks about how it is easy to forget where our plant foods come from when we are faced with a supermarket full of perfect looking fruit and vegetables. All of these plants are descendants of the wild. Generations of plant breeding have resulted in milder flavours alongside symmetry and aesthetics deemed more pleasing to the eye. With this watering down of flavour and loss of robust tastes comes a loss of knowledge. Clothilde reminded us that bitterness is often a taste missing from our cultivated foods, a taste that is prominent in many wild edibles. I believe it is this diversity of taste and flavour that attracts many curious chefs to foraging.
The very name of our country stems from the word Hierne, or (H) Ieirne which linguists have shown to mean ‘fat’ and ‘fruitful’, (Sexton,1998, p.62). That is what it felt like, the fat of the land, the fruits of the forest, laid out before us, a wild and wonderful banquet. Clothilde, spoke about preserving these edibles with almost reverential tones. Pickling, fermenting, brining, drying, a chefs dream. Alongside cooking many of the plants in familiar ways such as stir-frying, sautéing, and steaming, the idea of utilising the changes of flavour profiles through ancient ways of preserving and incorporating them into our menus for leaner months is very appealing. Clothilde is an expert. Her motto appeared to be if all else fails, make alcoholic liqueurs, wines, beers. Clothilde was proudly showing us her home.
Forest Energy
Ballymoyle is part native part human design. Currently 11% of Ireland is forested, mostly due to private individuals availing of forestry grants. Statistics published by Teagasc show that the forest estate in Ireland is made up of 71% conifers and 29% broadleaves, with more than three quarters of the “stocked forest” less than 30 years old (Teagasc, 2021). It is acknowledged that overall we need a more diverse selection of tree and shrub species, Ballymoyle seemed to me to be in two parts. There was a definite wildness about parts of it and a very defined almost staged feel to other parts. My untrained eye and lack of knowledge could not identify what was native, ancient or planted, but, there was a distinct lack of undergrowth in the more staged areas. This is a subject I would be keen to learn more about. Why and what is planted? Is it for commercial benefit, or ecological? Can there be symbiosis in this type of planting?
That said, there was an ancient feel to the place. A hint of mystical with a broodiness that I found appealing. Not at all menacing, as many forests and woods are often depicted in literature. As we reached the hilltop the promised vista revealed itself. Spectacular. Rolling hills, lush green fields, lazy cattle, all to the backdrop of a glorious sea view. It could not have been more beautiful.
It is thought that beneath every forest there is a web of communication. An internet of microorganisms, passing information to each other, The Wood Wide Web. This fascinating social networking of trees and plants apparently use a mycelium connection to pass on nutrients to other trees and warn of danger. I fancy that they even sympathise with each other and send healing to wounded colleagues. In some ways this makes me uneasy taking the fruits of the forest. Should I ask permission? Hugging a tree felt like a good way to say thanks, however, afraid of embarrassing myself I whispered thank you and continued to munch my way around. The appetite was indeed whetted.
Lunch
Taste buds titillated we reluctantly made our way back. Our lunch was hosted in a quaint rickety restaurant that was closed for renovations. Everyone had brought a little something, Tom our lecturer took centre stage and arranged the picnic feast. We shared salads, crusty breads, cheeses, relishes, dips and sweet treats as we sat under the trees in the restaurant garden. Clothilde had arranged a display of preserves, pickles, wild leaves, dried herbs and flowers and of course some of her alcohols. The display was delightful, Olde Worlde and a perfect end to this enchanting and informative day. The sharing of food, getting to know each other a little better and discussing our morning fuelled our eagerness to learn more of what’s available in our countryside. The warming almost nostalgic taste of Clothilde’s Oak Leaf wine still lingering as I headed back to my car and on to the motorway.
My curiosity had been sparked. I have an eagerness to delve deeper into the world of foraging and preserving, but, to ensure it is with a sense of respect and mindfulness of the place our plant foods originate from. There is a lot to know, taking it one plant at a time seems to be a good idea to me. Clothilde’s job is safe, for now.
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