31 January 2022
McNally Family Farm,
Balrickard, Co, Dublin
Before you even arrive at McNally’s you know you are heading for farming country. There was a marked difference between the smooth busy M50 and the winding, bumpy, grass covered, potholed road that led us onto the Family farm. Immediately you knew you were on a working farm. A very busy working farm. The yard looked a little dishevelled, it was mucky! My red wellies were a good choice. We were met by owners Jenny and Pat, quintessential farmers, dressed appropriately for their environment, kindly weather beaten faces, big welcome smiles. And welcome us they did.
Jenny was straight down to business, talking at a rapid rate describing “what we do for a few bob” ploughing through the muck and stepping deftly over a few scattered discarded boxes, she led us to the poly tunnels. Fifty large poly tunnels filled with salad leaves, herbs and vegetables, mainly salad leaves at this time of the year. It was vast and Jenny wanted us to see each of them. The poly tunnels cover approx. two thirds of an acre, they farm over 77 acres, organically growing an array of vegetables, potatoes and herbs and fruits. The Mc Nallys are organically certified since 1998 and have recently been joined by their five children in running the business. Selling their produce at farmer’s markets, directly to chefs and restaurants and through their onsite farm shop whilst also showcasing the produce through their farm cafe they have built a fantastic business from the necessity to survive and diversify that can sustain them all. What an achievement.
The produce looks vibrant, healthy, natural and colourful, everything that chefs would want for their dishes. Jenny talks about the produce with a reverence only someone with a passion for their job can do. Describing the peppery taste of the wild rocket, the crunch of the watercress how she encourages her customers to use all parts of the plants and try alternatives. Throughout the day Pat interrupts Jenny gently, adding his own nuggets of information. How long it takes to put up a new tunnel, using natural predators to fight off pests and diseases, he is so obviously proud of their business and of his powerhouse of a wife.
These farms are few and far between. Only 2% of Irelands farms are organic, well below the European average of 7 % (Kennedy, 2021). The European Farm to Fork strategy aims to make our food systems more sustainable and increase organic farming by 25% by 2030, many think this is an ambitious aim. There is nothing wrong with ambition, add to it a little tenacity, a pinch of hope and a big spoonful of McNally’s wisdom and it just might be possible. Sustainability is a way of life here not a marketing tool.
Educating chefs would come naturally to Jenny, she exudes confidence in her environment, is hugely knowledgeable and showed great patience with our endless questions. Showing chefs, the reality of growing at this level is needed in our industry, respect for ingredients will lead to a more thoughtful approach to using them and in turn increase demand
Jenny believes in planting by the phases of the moon. An age old idea becoming somewhat ‘trendy’ it is a philosophy of working with rather than against nature. I can only thank McNally’s for their trendy philosophy.
Be gone plastic bags of droopy salads!
Little Cress
Ballyhack, Co Meath
Another tenacious and passionate grower Dave Heffernan from Little Cress was more than hospitable to our group. Met with (much appreciated) cake and tea we entered the warmth of the heated polytunnel to a riot of colour. The array of microgreens was stunning. Tiny perfectly formed plants at various stages of growth, it was hard to resist picking off some for tasting. Luckily Dave had picked a sample of each for our examination and tasting. Exotic sounding names I was excited to discover new flavour profiles among them.
Chefs love microgreens. They help give a classy colourful twist or in the case of Thai basil authenticity to a dish. The flavour profile of these micros is intense, small amounts should be used (tweezers at hand!) with careful consideration of what they are being used with. What is their purpose on the plate? I’m not a fan of popping a bit of green on top of the plate just to dress it up.
Dave is exceptionally considered in his production. The quality is outstanding. Not for the first time today am I made aware of the enormous effort it takes to make this happen. This is a 7 days a week job. It requires dedication, constantly evolving, keeping up with trends and setting trends, meeting challenges head on and lots of trial and error. Trial and error cost money, but if you are aiming high the stakes will be high. Dave has been challenged considerably over the last few years. Brexit and a simultaneous pandemic have tested him and all food producers, but, the biggest challenge he faces now is the replacement of peat.
Peat is the perfect medium for growing microgreens, for Little Cress this is causing problems. In an effort to save Irelands bogs peat is no longer available as a fuel source. Dave has trialled a wide variety of growing mediums over the last few years. Nothing is working to the standard he demands. This is a challenge that will be difficult to overcome, and Dave is putting new ideas to the test in the event that his current business model does not overcome the peat challenge.
From a tiny garden shed, still used for propagation, to a successful business supplying the country’s top chefs and restaurants with tiny plants Dave and his Little Cress business are inspirational, motivational and extremely likeable. A warm personality, generosity of spirit and collaborative approach with industry will surely see Little Cress continue to do mighty things. Thank you Dave.
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