01 November 2021
The vegetable plots were a sorry sight. The polytunnel screamed for attention. So, buoyed by Paula’s cry to “let’s get ‘em in the ground”, suitably dressed in our new brand new TUDublin fleeces and beanies, garden tools and gloves in hand off we went to weed, hoe and tidy in preparation for planting. The outside beds were first to benefit from our attention. Paula demonstrated how to tidy up the beds, no need to dig deep, just remove the over-ground growth and break up the web of straggly roots in the soil. Once the roots are broken they won’t affect the growth of our newly planted vegetables. Beds tidied, we spread a fine layer of spent mushroom compost on top, no need to water the soil as plenty of rain had fallen and just like that we were ready to plant our over winter vegetables. We were very pleased with ourselves.
Garlic (Allium sativum)
Garlic is a chef’s best friend, followed closely by onions. With a long history in culinary, medicinal and folklore its uses and health benefits are well documented and it’s hard to find a savoury recipe that doesn’t include it, indeed, is a recipe without it worth following? In his book Vegetables for the Irish Garden, Klaus Laitenberger speaks about how the Egyptians, the Romans and the Greeks all used garlic for strength and to ward off infection and evil spirits. Regardless of the folklore Allium sativum, though small in size offers an impact of flavour and array of uses not matched by any other vegetable. There are over a hundred varieties of garlic, each offering differing flavours of hot, sweet, nutty, metallic, earthy, floral or fruity characteristics (The Flavour Thesaurus, 2010). It is one of the first things we plant.
Outlining the differences between hard neck and soft neck varieties Paula talked us through how to choose a variety that is suited for autumn planting, explaining that garlic needs a cold period of about 6 weeks if the cloves are to form successfully. Laitenberger, offers a few tips on spacing: plant at least 20cm apart, plant only first class bulbs sourced from reputable suppliers and if your soil is heavy grow in raised beds, he also echoes Paula’s words of “if you have only 1.5 metres of bed you can grow enough garlic to give you one bulb per week for 28 weeks”. One bulb per week! Perhaps this chef will need to borrow some extra growing space. We planted both softneck (Vallelado) and hardneck (Morado) varieties of these hardy vegetables at a depth of twice their size lightly covered them in soil and that was that. The hardneck variety will give us Scapes and an easier to peel clove, while the softneck grow on a soft stem often braided to form a pretty display (image 1). Historically garlic was braided to aid storage and help keep it fresh, when using it this way it is important to use the garlic from the bottom first to keep it together, it should stay fresh approximately 6 months this way according to garlicbraids.com. Scapes are much lauded by chefs and are eagerly anticipated in late spring. The Scapes are long slightly curling green stems that are cut off by growers to allow the plants energy resources to go into the bulb and not the flower. With a milder taste, more akin to chives or scallions they have many culinary uses. Lightly steamed as a vegetable, added to stir fries, pickled, fermented and used to prepare a pesto, they are delicious (image 2).
Onions (Alliceae, Alliums)
Knowing your onions is a saying associated with one being very knowledgeable about a particular topic, unfortunately this is not the case for me when it comes to actually growing onions. Paula explained by planting over winter onion sets in autumn the grower could expect to harvest 3 or 4 weeks earlier than the spring sown sets, thus ensuring a good supply of onions most of the year around. The down side to this type of sowing is that over wintered onions will not store for long periods of time like their spring grown cousins. Our onions were laid out ready for sowing in two different ways, spaced singly 8 to 10cm apart and 4 together spaced 15 cm apart. The larger the spacing the more room to grow, ultimately it’s dependant on how you intend to use them. The sets, or immature onions are not buried in the ground completely, they appear to just sit slightly embedded in the soil, not firmed over.
This workhorse of the kitchen has a long and interesting history. Thought to be the oldest of our cultivated vegetables (Vegetable Facts, History of Onions) originating in Asia they are used in every culture around the world for their unmatched ability to add a foundation of savoury, fresh and umami flavours to an unimaginable amount of dishes. There are many varieties of onions, each with their own personality and characteristics. Choosing an onion for a dish will depend on what you want the final product to be. In general white are considered the mildest, yellow the most pungent and red sharpest, however this is not written in stone and often whatever onions are to hand are used in the kitchen. A pity perhaps that more care is not taken when writing recipes that a particular onion is not called for. Let’s respect the onion individuality!
A favourite Onion recipe: Sweet pickled onions Mild white onion or red variety, finely sliced in sauté style Pickle liquor made up of 2 parts sugar to 1 part Kombucha vinegar, add sliced ginger, peppercorns, vanilla pod, and star anise. Boil for 10 minutes. Cool slightly. Pack the onions into a sterilised jar, pour the liquor over them and press down firmly. Seal the jar and allow to rest for at least 3 days. Store in the fridge for up to 3 weeks. Use as a garnish, salad item, or mix with sauerkraut for added flavour. Eat straight from the jar
The polytunnel
Outside vegetable beds tidied, “fed” and planted we moved into the relative warmth of the polytunnel. Unkempt and a little sad looking, Paula compared the differences of the soil in these beds to the outside beds. They were bone dry. Weeding done, the soil was soaked in water and a layer of spent mushroom compost added. Paula, acknowledged that the soil here was likely to still contain enough fertility for the salads we were planting, she knew that very little had been grown in them over the past year. We planted a selection of salad leaves suitable for continuous harvesting. This is achieved by harvesting the outside leaves first and planting at intervals, not all the seeds or modules at the same time. As chefs we spoke about the tastes and flavours of the different salad leaves, the colours, the role it plays aesthetically, the nutritive value and the ubiquitous rocket, found on every menu from garage forecourts to high end restaurants. Respecting the produce, handling it carefully, storing it correctly and using it wisely to avoid waste, some of my colleagues gave examples of abuse and misuse of the salad by both chefs and customers. Each salad leaf has a very distinct flavour profile and should be used accordingly to enhance a dish or compliment it.
Maintenance of the polytunnel during the winter months was highlighted by Paula. Keep an eye on the moisture content of the beds, they may still require regular watering, use the time to clean up, plan and experiment with winter growing.
Other Vegetables
Alongside our garlic and onions, we also sowed some Rioja purple sprouting broccoli and Cavalo Nero kale for harvesting early spring. Wonderful vegetables for culinary uses, offering a bitterness often missing from our daily plates. A cloche was used to protect the broccoli from both frost and birds. Both members of the brassica family they are apparently easy to grow, give a great yield and offer super nutritive value. They also pair very well with our garlic and onion friends planted close by. Mother Nature’s natural flavour pairings. Points of consideration included the precaution against ‘Bolting’. Edible plants like lettuce, broccoli and other greens will bolt if left to go to seed or are stressed. Stopping the flowering process and ensuring that there is a balance of heat, sunlight and growing conditions (not too rich soil) can stop this process. According to Botancialinterests.com using a kelp or seaweed fertiliser can help your plants deal with stresses. I look forward to harvesting and cooking our bitter friends.
A favourite Kale recipe Split yellow peas Onion, garlic, rosemary, Kale, Chestnut mushrooms, toasted hazelnuts, orange zest (or Kombucha vinegar). Cook the peas al dente. Sweat the onions and garlic and add the mushrooms and rosemary. Add the torn kale, and cook for 2 /3 minutes. Add the zest or vinegar cook down for a further minute. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the kale mix on top of the split peas and sprinkle with a good handful of toasted hazelnuts. (Adapted from The Doctors Kitchen)
The learning
There is much learning in doing. Feeling the soil, handling the plugs, measuring the space and depth, it cements itself in the psyche better from the practical application. Sowing anything is a hopeful thing to do. It suggests future harvest, beauty and is an investment in the future. It was a bright crisp sunny day, a welcome afternoon of being outside learning and getting up close and personal with the soil. Paula’s passion shines like a beacon when she has her hands in the ground, she is animated, talks fast and works fast. It is contagious. Her cry to “get em in the ground” almost felt like a primeval need. A hopeful event, with lots to research and learn.
References
Botanical Interests, (2021) Bolting: What, Why, and How to Prevent it [online] available at: Bolting: What, Why, and How to Prevent it, Articles & Blogs: Botanical Interests [accessed] 2 November 2021.
Garlic Braids.com (2018) Garlic FAQ [online] available at:Garlic FAQ - GarlicBraids.com [Blog] June 18 2020] [accessed] 2nd November 2021 202.
Vegetable Facts, (2021) Onion History – Origin and History of Onions [online] available at: http://www.vegetablefacts.net/vegetable-history/history-of-onions/ [accessed] 3rd November 2021.
Laitenberger, Klaus. (2021) Vegetables for the Irish Garden, 5th ed., Ireland: Milkwood Farm Publishing.
Aujla, Rupy. (2017) The Doctors kitchen, London England: HarperCollins Publishing.
Segnit, Niki. (2010) The flavour Thesaurus: pairings, recipes and ideas for the creative cook, Croydon, London: Bloomsbury Publishing.
Johnson, Lauren. (2017) Edible Jersey Garlic Scapes (blog) May 1st 2017, [online] available at: https://ediblejersey.ediblecommunities.com/recipes/garlic-scapes [accessed] 04 November 2021.
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